Allium - Fairford

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Wednesday, June 11, 2008
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This is Gloucestershire

If the food could be as inviting, we were in for a real

treat.

James and Erica Graham's Fairford restaurant has seen a

number of transformations over the years. It had an enforced

make-over following the summer floods and was redecorated and

re-named The Ostrich for the TV show which aired in

September.

As Erica poured our drinks in the stylish bar, she said:

"The walls have had so many coats of paint we think the place

is getting smaller."

In truth the inside is elegant and spacious. The walls and

carpets are light and the decor simple, but elegant.

We'd walked into a restaurant with a lot of class and were

made to feel instantly at home.

The menu had a decidedly wintry feel. The owners try to use

fresh local produce so the food on offer changes with the

seasons.

For starter, I opted for the Jerusalem artichoke velout??,

foie gras cromesquis, and my girlfriend Vicky had confit belly

of pork, pumpkin and chestnut.

Each course was neatly presented and let the flavours speak

for themselves.

Fresh seasonal vegetables complemented the rich flavours,

intricate sauces and delicate seasonings.

For main I had goose breast, neck and leg, quince and red

cabbage. Vicky opted for beef daube, mash and parsnips, with

home smoked bacon.

On a cold, very foggy night the food couldn't have been more

warming. It was like huddling round a fire when it's snowing

outside.

In between the courses we were tempted with numerous

mini-morsels including garlic cheese and chutney in an

ice-cream like cone, apple cream and caramel jelly in a shot

glass, duck pate and parsnip soup.

Vicky had caramel ice-cream for dessert. I succumbed to the

honey and almond parfait with milk chocolate ice cream.

The perfect wine is recommended for every dessert at a cost

of around £6 and you can choose from the biggest selection of

British cheeses I've ever seen for a supplement of £2.

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