THIS is a story of two beaches, one town and the best blues for miles around.

Tenby, on the Pembrokeshire coast, is a picturesque seaside resort clinging to the cliff. The house facades are painted a rainbow of colours. No boring Georgian conformity here. And the town is surrounded by beaches.

There is the North Beach, home of the old harbour, turned sailing club and, just beyond, the amazingly modern and beautiful lifeboat station. It is sheltered, sandy and cosy. Though it was raining and blowing in true October fashion, we were able to enjoy our stroll on the sands, protected from the howling winds.

Then there is the South Beach. There, the wind whipped the sand into a frenzy and swept it along at a staggering pace. High on the cliff, in the warmth of Tenby Museum, we stood and watched, mesmerized, by the river of sand flowing along the beach.

A popular resort since the 18th century – George Eliot stayed here while her partner George Henry Lewes did research – Tenby has somehow escaped that seaside tat that spoils so many a town.

There are no horrid arcades, no shops full of useless plastic rubbish, no loud drunken yobs. Instead there are cosy pubs, truly lovely independent coffee shops, interesting stores and ordinary people going about their daily business in their town.

It's a lively town with enough arts and events to satisfy the choosiest of culture vultures.

Next month the town will be filled with the sounds of R&B with the Tenby Blues Festival. In its third year it includes a variety of shows and countless free music in pubs, clubs and hotels.

Though still in its infancy it is attracting decent names, including American Sherman Robertson and British king of the slide, Johnny Dickinson.

The best thing about the festival is that the venues are small. Removing blues from the clubs and gin joints where it was born to big auditoriums where people are expected to sit quietly and listen, somehow sterilises it, diluting its raw, emotional edge.

Here, you can enjoy good blues in more than 15 venues – and even better they are all within walking distance.

One of the venues is the Fourcroft Hotel in North Beach, which was our abode for two days. I can't remember the last time I stayed in a hotel where I could lie in bed and look out the window at the sea.

The family-run hotel is perched just above the sea and hotel residents can enjoy a walk down through the delightful gardens to the beach.

If you want uber-modern interiors and nouvelle cuisine this isn't the place for you.

But if you want a hotel that is comfortable, with friendly staff and a good restaurant then you can get no better.

My other half was beside himself with joy when we arrived on Friday night to find it also had Brains beer on tap.

And from the hotel, you're only a few minutes' walk from the centre of town. The new modern lifeboat station is worth a look as is the Tenby Museum and Art Gallery. It has a particularly fine collection of work by Augustus John and his sister Gwen. Perched on the cliff in Tenby Castle, it is the perfect destination on a rainy afternoon.

From 1200-1650, the walled town of Tenby was an important and influential place. Its strategic position overlooking the Bristol Channel made it the envy of many. It survived many attempts to capture it.

However, in 1650 a civil war erupted which destroyed half of its population. It fell into decline and almost perished. Its fortunes started to turn again in the 18th century when it became a destination for wealthy tourists.

The very things that attracted them still draws visitors. The walks along the coast are stunning with some of the best bird watching around. The beaches are clean and it's the perfect place to surf. Whatever water sport you fancy you will find here.

In addition to its resident wildlife, Caldey Island, off Tenby, has a small community of monks living in the Cistercian Monastery. Visitors can see the 12th century priory and walk to the lighthouse view point.

Or you can just sit in Caffe Vista at the top of Crackwell Street and stare dreamily out to sea while enjoying a fine cup of coffee and fantastic cakes.

After a bracing walk, it was heaven to get back to the Fourcroft Hotel, watch the sun set over the sea and let all your cares drift out with the waves.