Luxury hotel Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons is culture on a plate
WITH a new series of The Restaurant being aired on BBC Two, world-renowned chef Raymond Blanc has been busy challenging and dressing down another group of aspiring restaurateurs.
The series puts nine couples through their paces who are all dreaming of opening their own establishment and if anyone can help them it's this grand master of the industry whose Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons has been wining and dining customers for 30 years.
The well-oiled operation, which has a two Michelin-starred restaurant specialising in modern French cuisine and rooms overlooking serene, cottage-style gardens, is always full.
The combination of beautiful gardens, amazing food and bedrooms to die for, has proved to be a winning formula for the Frenchman who fell in love with England when he moved here to work as a waiter.
Raymond and wife Jenny's first restaurant, Les Quat Saisons, was opened in Oxford in 1977 with Maison Blanc, a bakery and patisserie, following in 1981.
Three years later, Raymond created his own hotel and restaurant in the picturesque village of Great Milton.
The elegant old manor house dates back to 1225 and has been rebuilt and enlarged over the years.
Raymond bought the house from Lady Cromwell in the 1980s and has carried out his own programme of restoration, which has included adding a conservatory, extending the kitchen and transforming the dovecote and stables into more bedrooms which are all named individually.
We stayed in Amethyst in the garden courtyard area which is adjacent to the main house. The atmosphere is like a peaceful holiday village with lush foliage brushing over the windows to maintain privacy, terraces for outdoor dining and weaving paths which lead you to the garden, reception or restaurant.
Our room, as the name suggests, was emblazoned with purple hues from the crystals in the bathroom to the platter of grapes and fresh fruit on the table.
With chilled Champagne to greet us and a fabulous ensuite kitted out with olive toiletries from France it was hard to find the willpower to get dressed up and head out for dinner.
The soft classical music playing in the background just makes you want to relax and take in your surroundings.
But with Le Manoir being the only country house hotel in the UK to achieve two Michelin stars for an impressive 19 years, the food cannot be missed. People think nothing of driving out here from London just for lunch.
Thankfully, Le Manoir isn't stuffy and on a warm evening you can throw your jacket over a chair and take in the tranquil setting with a few drinks on the lawn.
On this particular evening we were attending a talk by former journalist-turned-politician Martin Bell who is visiting Cheltenham Literature Festival next month.
It was held in the Belle Epoque Room which is separate to the main restaurant and is regularly used to host guest speakers.
As Martin shared anecdotes about his career, we enjoyed a delicious six-course dinner.
Raymond's chefs had rustled up a special taster vegetarian version for me which included beetroot salad with horseradish cream, risotto of spring vegetables, Sicilian tomatoes and mascarpone cream, roasted sweet Romano pepper, tabouleh, artichoke confit and spiced pepper jus and fresh tagliatelle pasta, seasonal vegetables, rosemary and Gruyere cheese sauce.
It was rounded off with Gariguette strawberries, coffee and petits fours.
■ Le Manoir hosts events all year round and is gearing up for its annual Le Festival from Thursday to next Saturday, which welcomes opera singer Natasha Marsh, violinist Nicola Benedetti and jazz singer Jacqui Dankworth.
On arrival at Le Manoir, guests will be welcomed at a Ruinart Champagne reception and will then make their way to neighbouring St Mary's Church, where the concerts take place.
Following each evening's performance, there is a four-course feast. Packages start at £200 per person. For more information, call 01844 277200.
■ The Restaurant is being shown on BBC Two on Thursdays at 8pm.
Location: Le Manoir, Church Road, Great Milton, Oxford
Cost: From £395 for a standard bedroom and £1,050 for a suite, including a French breakfast
Contact: 01844 278881
Website: www.manoir.com









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