REVIEW: Indus - Bath Road, Cheltenham

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Thursday, June 23, 2011
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TIGwhatson

YOU'VE probably all been there at some time or another.

After a long day at work it's time to kick back in the local curry house, but when you pick up the menu there are at least four dishes you fancy trying and you're torn.

So on such an occasion, when we spotted the Indus Special Thali offering an array of five dishes, there was no need to look any further.

A selection of chicken tikka, sheekh kebab, lamb bhuna, prawn pathia, keema chaat, naan and pilau rice was included in the deal.

But it's always good to make sure there's enough on the table, so at the waiter's recommendation we ordered a couple of side dishes as well, just to be safe.

By the time our food arrived we had churned through a couple of poppadoms and the majority of a pickle tray, along with a bottle of cool Indian lager.

And it quickly became clear that our choice was a wise one.

Each dish was a fine example of its type, with just enough for a couple of good mouthfuls per person.

The meat was nicely cooked and of good texture, while the prawns were well-cooked and plentiful.

And when my glass started to look empty there was always a waiter on hand to top me up with another speedily delivered bottle.

Most importantly, though, each dish had its own taste and none of them had that bland run-of-the-mill unidentifiable curry taste that blights many restaurants.

The staff are friendly and engage well with the customers. Service is something that is clearly important to owner Abul Bashar Mohammed Alam.

But the experience at Indus is far more than just the food.

The first thing diners will note, and it must attract a lot of people who may have otherwise gone elsewhere, is the alluring front.

Decorated with thousands of tiny tiles, its shimmering, indigo mosaic adds an air of mystique to the evening and draws the gaze of those passing by.

There can't be many restaurants of this size with such a striking façade.

On entering the restaurant it looked pretty busy and we didn't fancy our chances of getting a table. But we were asked to wait for a few minutes before being ushered to a comfortable spot towards the rear of the restaurant.

The inside retains a slightly more traditional curry house feel than the exterior, but is still decorated in a way that provides a different dining area.

It maintains a compact but not oppressive setup with tables neatly spaced through the restaurant able to accommodate groups of almost any size.

It's easy to maintain your own conversation across a neatly-laid table, but at the same time the intimate nature makes for a very sociable dining experience.

If you're looking for a tasty, hearty curry in a pleasant atmosphere, Indus is certainly a decent option.

Max Wilkinson

 

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