Travel review of Bath Crescent for Weekend

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Friday, September 12, 2008
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This is Gloucestershire

WE'VE all seen pictures of Bath's wonderful Royal Crescent, but to really appreciate this fantastic example of European architecture you have to be there in person.

For my partner and I, it was under an impressively moody thunder cloud that we first clapped eyes on the majestic vista.

The 500ft long and 50ft elliptical curve design is enchanting, and is enjoyed by thousands of tourists every year.

We, however, were able to enjoy our surroundings from the landmark's finest viewpoint – the Royal Crescent hotel.

This, the jewel in the von Essen crown, lies at almost the centre of the imposing architectural arc.

Occupying two grade I-listed buildings, The Royal Crescent is a maze of chequered flooring, Regency stripes and the very best of 18th century decoration.

The inviting grandeur of the hotel is overwhelming to say the least, but there's plenty of friendly faces to ease you through the transition from tourist to guest.

On route to the bedrooms, the frantic life which lies outside the doors in the bustling city seems a distant memory, the hotel – with its magnificent cantilevered stone staircase – offers quiet seclusion, gracious living and sophisticated dining at the centre of the civilised world.

Boasting an impressive art collection including Reynolds, Gainsborough and the satirical cartoonist, Thomas Rowlandson, the 45 bedrooms are lovingly restored havens for guests to relax in during their stay.

With their own unique character and stunning views over the surrounding gardens, lawns and parkland, they are sublime, even as the heavens open.

A trip to the hotel's Bath House spa, complete with sumptuous relaxation pool, sauna, gym and a range of treatments, was an unexpected delight.

It aims to embrace ancient and modern day spa culture – perfect in a city which is home to both The Roman Baths and Thermae Bath Spa.

If spas aren't your thing, there are plenty of other attractions including the recently restored Prior Park Garden and a super Fashion Museum.

If your sightseeing trip doesn't stretch to an overnight stay, at least book a table at The Royal Crescent's award-winning Dower House restaurant.

Offering innovative cuisine within a stunning architectural setting, the contemporary British cuisine is brought to life, drawing influences from the far east and the Mediterranean.

To start, I opted for the rillette of rabbit, accompanied with smoked consomme jelly and carrot soubise.

My partner opted for the same, much to my disappointment, as I was willing him to go for the English asparagus veloute with poached pheasant egg, just so I could pinch a taste.

For mains, I had chosen the glazed Jacob's ladder which was served with radish, grapes and shallot espuma and was incredible.

He had opted for the glazed monkfish cheeks, with Iberico ham and red Duke of York potatoes.

The only disappointment was that the hotel did not have Earl Grey tea, but given the rest of the meal, I was more than happy to overlook that.

As we retreated to the bar to finish our drinks and further 'um' and 'ah' over our delicious meal, there was little left to do other than watch the rain lash down over the glorious city.

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