A feast for our special guests

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Friday, February 03, 2012
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Gloucestershire Echo

I'VE had plenty of curries but this one was a first and it's fair to say I wasn't sure about eating goat.

But this was meant to be an African experience, so goat curry it was. Tender and not unlike lamb, it came in a rich dark sauce with plenty of spicy depth and a medium heat, accompanied by Mukimo, a mix of mushy peas, sweetcorn and potatoes.

It was among the best dishes of the evening and the most popular at this unusual Gloucester restaurant, run by Kenyans Charlie and Wanja Odhiambo.

They've started from virtually nothing and eating here is an experience – and a humbling one. Sheer hard work, determination and a belief that they can do it has brought them from what Wanja admits was an all-time low to a life they love, welcoming guests to their tiny restaurant.

There are just five tables – seating about 15 people – in a little room decorated simply with some African mementoes. Tablecloths from Kenya decorated with giraffes and elephants, little carved animals such as zebra and lions and shields and carvings hung on the walls give a nod to the great continent.

Wanja is in the kitchen, while Charlie looks after the guests – barely taking a breather after a day as a teaching and disabilities assistant in the city.

Friendly and welcoming, hospitality is their middle name. Prepare for a long leisurely evening with time to chat between courses, not only with your dining companion but with Charlie too.

"We offer what you would eat if you were a special guest in a Kenyan home," said Charlie.

Needless to say, it's best to book in advance, especially as some of the dishes need long slow cooking.

The menu offers various curries for around £7.50, including Tilapia fish or Nile perch, barbecued meat, chicken or ribs for £8.50 and a number of specials that need six hours' notice such as barbecued beef in a peanut and tomato sauce.

It's vegetarian heaven here too, with Quorn pilau, £5.50 Quorn curry, £5.50. moong beans and Tofu among some of the choices.

We chose the African Banquet, £12.50, where you try a range of dishes – and you need to give at least a day's notice.

First was barbecued beef brisket with Bhajjia – potato coated in gram flour and coriander, served with chopped tomato, onion and coriander. The beef was falling off the bone and the potatoes nicely crisped on the outside. Delicious.

Next was another huge plate to share – half a barbecued chicken with fried plantain and a salad of tomato, onion and coriander. Plantain, explained Charlie, looks like a banana but of course doesn't taste anything like it. The slices are fried and taste like potato but sweeter.

Then came three curries to try – the goat curry, a fish curry and Ethiopian chicken, served with rice and Wanja's chapattis.

The fish was a lighter milder dish but our favourite was the spicier Ethiopian dish, created to the strength you prefer.

Charlie and Wanja mix all their own spices and this one has 15. The recipe originated from when the couple lived in Kenya and took in an Ethiopian refugee – in return he taught them to cook this dish.

There are some enticing desserts at amazing prices – banana fritters, tropical pancake and cheesecake, all £2.50. But after such a feast, we opted for a traditional ginger tea, a cleansing and refreshing end to our African experience.

Joyce Matthews

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  • Profile image for DG9999

    by DG9999

    Friday, February 03 2012, 12:42PM

    “Sounds good, Joyce-uh-where is it in Gloucester, exactly?”

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