I was liked a confused celebrity

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Tuesday, December 23, 2008
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This is Gloucestershire

I was about to jump into a Snatch Land Rover to head out to a Patrol Base when I was asked if I had a tourniquet.

I had to admit I didn’t so I was giving a crash course in using one – being told to tie it tight around the bit I was missing.

Taking a deep breath I took it and hoped for the best. We headed out of the base, travelling through Sangin town on the way.

There is always a risk of roadside bombs (Improvised Explosive Devices) or fire, which is known as contact, from the Taliban along the way.

One troop, armed with a rifle and pistol, stood up in the back of the Snatch for the journey, scanning the surrounding area for insurgents or potential suicide bombers.

As we made our way through the town I peeked out of the back of the window, catching glimpses of fruit and vegetable markets, donkeys pulling laden carts and Afghans sipping Chai. I have to admit I was pretty terrified sat in the back of that Snatch.

Despite the precautions the troops take out here and the professional way they do their jobs there is no feeling quite like sitting in a confined space in a bumpy vehicle desperately hoping it won’t drive over a bomb.

I tried to make myself as small as possible – although I’m not quite sure what I was trying to achieve. It’s funny the things your mind does when your body is confronted with the prospect of serious harm – a scenario which thankfully you do not come across too often in the UK.

Parts of the road, where conveys had experienced contact with Taliban before, was lined with Afghanistan National Army soldiers scanning the area with their rifles. The driver put his foot down here and the Snatch bounced and jolted its way along the road. Desperately trying to stay on my seat it was only half-way through the ‘dash’ that I realised I was holding my breath.

After about 15 minutes we reached the Patrol Base (PB) and I was able to breathe freely again. I was almost giddy with relief that we had arrived there without incident.

It was only when I had started to relax that I was told no journalist had ever ventured this far out to this base with 1 Rifles - I was pretty glad I didn’t know that before we made the journey - I may have passed out through lack of oxygen.

The Patrol Bases, which are scattered around Sangin are even more basic than the main camp and are much smaller. Wooden structures provide the accommodation and the loo consists of a seat and the use of plastic bags to dispose of personal waste. Although, I have noticed the Troops have an amazing ability to make the barest of accommodation look homely – posters, Christmas cards and the odd bit of tinsel are merrily donned around their main ‘dining room’ which is usually where you will find them, laughing and joking during ‘downtime.’

This day troops were in high spirits unpacking shoeboxes full of sweets, chocolate, cereals and Christmas cards sent out from the UK. It’s clear the show of support from home gives a major moral boost.

I was shown around the camp and looked out over the hesco (cloth-lined cages filled with sand which provide a buffer to bullets and rocket propelled grenades) which surrounded it. I got my first close up glimpse of what is known as the Green Zone.

Here irrigation ditches allow lush crops to grow in summer – hence the name. This apparently provides the Taliban with cover, enabling them to creep closer to the PBs. As it is now winter the area was far more bare giving troops better vision of the surrounding area. The irrigation ditches also make it impossible for vehicles to pass through, meaning patrols are done on foot.

At the base I had my first introduction to the ANA (Afghanistan National Army). They were very keen to pose for a picture and happy to share their Chai – which tasted surprisingly good – kind of like green tea.

After another trip in the Snatch we arrived at a PB within Sangin town. This was a completely different place to the last one.

It was an extremely impressive three-storey mansion, complete with balconies, elaborate decorated columns, garages and what was believed to have been a mosque. It was now looking pretty battle weary and had become a Patrol Base for the Afghanistan National Army.

I attracted quite a lot of attention from these guys as they apparently hardly ever see women apart from within their own family.

I posed for numerous pictures with them and felt a bit like a (slightly confused) celebrity for all of five minutes.

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