Holme Lacey House Hotel, Herefordshire

Friday, October 31, 2008, 08:00

Watching five waitresses chase a swooping bat around a restaurant with flailing dishcloths is one of the funniest things I've ever seen.

This scene wasn't a sketch in a show but the fuss that ensued after the little furry beast sailed from the Herefordshire countryside into the Courtyard Bistro at Holme Lacy House hotel.

Luckily he found his way out into the night skies again but the episode underlined the unexpected charms of spending time in the countryside.

A trip to Warner Leisure Hotel's Georgian property in the Wye Valley won't take you more than an hour to get to from Gloucestershire. But holed up in the luxurious grounds, surrounded by grazing sheep and a lake filled with fish, you feel like you've left the everyday world far away.

The hotel, which is 20 minutes from Ross-on-Wye, has recently invested in a bit of sprucing up and I was there to try out its upgraded dining experience.

Visitors can now enjoy the same meals as the hotel guests without being residents.

The revamped Courtyard Bistro has a rich warmth to it. Thick chocolate carpets laced with entwined leaf motifs lead the way to a contemporary space inspired by a modern theatre kitchen.

There is plenty of choice on the wholesome three course European menu.

The warm bruschetta of goats cheese and chargrilled vegetables with tomato chutney arrived promptly in a generous portion and was beautifully presented.

My sister's goujons of sole with herb rocket salad and homemade tartare sauce was light and fresh.

Our main courses whizzed out almost as soon as we'd finished. I was greeted with a filo parcel of feta, spinach and ratatouille with a rich tomato sauce (in place of avocado puree) and sauté potatoes. It was rich in flavour and more than I could manage.

While Amy enjoyed a sizeable rump of lamb with a cassoulet of beans, potato, rosemary jus and braised carrots that she found hearty and filling.

A selection of cheeses with grapes and chutney for dessert were warmly received by my sister who devoured them with gusto saying the temperature and textures of the cheeses were wonderful.

My passionfruit mousse was a little bland and wasn't quite as light as I would have liked but I enjoyed the colourful fruit salad that accompanied it.

We were impressed with the reasonably priced selection of wines and found the three course meal price of £27.95 good value for portion size and great service.

As we were staying at the hotel we made the most of the in-house entertainment and were impressed by the lively jazz band that inspired couples to take to the dance floor.

It was our historic bedroom though that was one of the most impressive parts of the stay.

Swanning around in a fluffy bathrobe and sitting in the cushioned 7ft window seats while gazing out on fields filled with trees and grazing sheep was heavenly.

The gigantic bathroom lent to the feeling of supreme cat-that-got-the-cream grandeur and the squishy duck down lined beds wrapped us up cosily for the night.

Breakfast service is bustling and efficient, if you want to avoid the crowds and queues for a table it's best to get down there before peak time.

A hearty cooked breakfast is served on steaming hot plates and continental choice is pretty good.

Before heading off I made the most of the swimming pool, bubble pool and sauna in the heart of the hotel.

But it was the formal gardens and walking down by the lake that was the most idyllic part of the hotel.

Orchard walls shelter archery areas, a tennis court and bowls lawn, while you can sit on an array of benches admiring the colourful flowers and rolling hills that surround the house.

It's a place that's easy to get to and hard to leave once the rural charm envelops you.

Holme Lacey House Hotel, Herefordshire

 

   





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